Friday, March 18, 2011

"He who wants the world to remain as it is, doesn't want it to remain at all."


14 March 2011—Prague, Czech Republic


I lay on the sidewalk, pinned by the sheer weight of my pack.  A group stands nearby and two cops have arrived.  I managed to roll over, but I couldn’t stand up.  My purse and a bag of groceries lay several feet away.  I touch my head to check for blood.  Nothing seems to be gushing down my face, but the pain is searing.  Where am I?  How did I get here?  What happened these past few weeks?

Okay, okay, so I didn’t lose my memory—what a sad attempt to cop out of the weeks I have neglected blogging.  But everything else is true.

It’s a funny story, really.  Well, kinda.  As I prepared to depart my hostel in Olomouc, one of the employees and I conversed about the comical size of my pack.  I made a statement regarding a persisting fear that I might stumble and my pack would carry me to the ground. 

Several hours later I arrived in Prague.  A strange moving incline threatened my stability; I had encountered moving steps and moving floors, but never before a moving incline.  I stepped cautiously on, and then cautiously off.  Catastrophe averted.  However, just a few seconds later, I walked confidently out of the station, as I always do—head up, an eager smile, ready to conquer a new city. Then I tripped.  I stumbled forward; everything seemed to be in slow motion.  I tried to regain my balance, but my pack threw me awry and propelled my forehead into the pavement. 

This was possibly the most humiliating moment of my life (besides that time I peed my pants in third grade during a spelling test).  The saddest part was the sheer amount of time it took anyone to help my sorry ass, as I lay pinned helplessly to the concrete.  I managed to roll over.  Now my predicament seemed to be no different than that of a turtle turned on his shell.  Finally, a man offered his hand and pulled me up.  Some cops asked if everything was alright; I’m pretty sure they were simply seeking confirmation of my sobriety.  As I touched my forehead, I nodded, and they went on their merry way.  There didn’t seem to be any blood, and I don’t think I blacked out.  But then again, those cops had arrived suspiciously fast.  I hadn’t seen them anywhere within the vicinity as I exited the station. I dug my hat out of my purse and hastily pulled it over my forehead, eager for a mirror to see the damage.

I was certainly a bit dazed, so I ended up hopping on the wrong tram.  Actually, I probably would have done the same without minor brain damage; I’m not so good with directions.   When I finally arrived at the hostel, I found a mirror.  The damage didn’t seem so bad.  In fact, it was barely noticeable because it all occurred above the hairline.  Granted, it was bloody and red and awful under the hair, but it could be sufficiently hidden.  The next thing I sought was an internet connection and googled ‘concussion.’  Yup, I most definitely had a minor concussion—nausea, headaches, dizziness, and a dazed confusion.  Sleep would have to wait a few hours.



6 February 2011—Berlin, Germany


I spent hours in front of the East Berlin Gallery, public art merged with graffiti on the longest remaining stretch of the Berlin Wall—inspirational pieces preaching peace and love.  Some of my friends have said I tend to sound like a hippie, and it’s probably true.  I often tout an attitude of unconditional love, optimism, acceptance and happiness.  Now it seems I’m not so alone in that perspective.  No matter how corny the lines, I couldn’t help but find myself grinning from ear to ear as I sensed the international unity that emerged from the scribbles.

Everywhere I go, everyone I meet is amazing—each unique, each beautiful, each irreplaceable.  But too often people isolate themselves—individually, regionally, nationally.  Perhaps it is a matter of comfort.  But the truth is, when you open yourself to them, people are the same everywhere.  They will offer you a kind smile, a warm bed, or a cup of tea.  Everyone wants the same thing—love and acceptance (and perhaps someone to laugh at their awful jokes).


It brought me back to December, when I spent several days at Kripalu, a yoga retreat in the Berkshires, with my mother.  She enrolled us in a program called “The Yoga of Yes.”  We had no idea what to expect.  And, frankly, if I had known, I probably would have sought refuge in the depths of the surrounding forests, hiding from the impeding doom of embarrassment and confrontation.  But it may have been one of the more enlightening experiences of my life.  We were a group of strangers, wide in the breadth of our age, background, and experiences.  In fact, we were more than strangers.  I doubt that there is any other circumstance in which we would have found one another and sought interaction.  Yet there we were.  We danced, we laughed, we performed awkward skits, and we exposed ourselves.  It was embarrassing, and then it was liberating.  We entered a moment without expectation and without judgment, a moment that existed entirely in the present.  This has been a mentality that I have brought with me in my travels.  As was often touted in that room, to accept and express ourselves opens space for those around us to accept and express their selves.  To find peace in this world, we must begin with ourselves.  When we can accept ourselves without expectation and judgment, than we can begin to openly embrace the individuality of those around us, no matter the differences.



3-5 February 2011—En route

As it turned out, I left all my camera wires in Rotterdam at Tessa and Tijmen’s place, so I would be making a rather inefficient detour on my way from Hamburg to Berlin.  The plan was two overnights.  My train departed around midnight.  I stumbled into the cabin with my giant pack, startling those who slept soundly before my arrival.  I settled into my seat by the window and put on my headphones.  Staring out the window into the vast darkness, I listened to Sigur Ros and drifted in and out of sleep.  It was the perfect soundtrack.

Back in Rotterdam, I was briefly reunited with Tessa, Tijmen, and Matt.  And just in time too.  They were prepping for a cooking party, and Matt had decided to make Bananas Flambé.  He had never made Bananas Flambé before, and as he searched the internet for instructions, I laughed and dragged him into the kitchen.  I learned how to make tableside flambés as a part of my job at the Pyramid Club, and I was going to show him how to make them right—flame and all.

Initially, I was a little hesitant.  The ceiling above Tessa and Tijmen’s stove was much lower than the vaulted ceilings of the Pyramid Club.  I did not want to become an accidental arsonist.  So, in the first round, my timidity prevented any giant flame, and Matt refused to believe my capabilities.  The next time around, I put the handle in Matt’s hand (this way he could be blamed at least, right?), added the liquor, and thrust Matt’s hand and the pan back onto the burner a bit more forcefully than the last time.  The three were a bit startled as a flame shot up toward the ceiling.



17 March 2011—Prague


I stayed up all night so I could catch the sunrise in the morning.  Sure, I could wake up for it, but any one who knows me also knows that the only way I’m ever up at a decent hour is if I didn’t sleep the night before.  I spent the evening online with my mother, helping her turn her Philosophy of Education paper into a giant ball of cheese.  Hopefully it was the tasty kind, and not the stinky kind; though sometimes the stinkiest cheese is the tastiest (if cheese is your kind of thing, that is).

I ventured out around 5:30.  Now, despite my negative predispositions toward Prague (a busted head and stampedes of spring-breakers in ‘Praha Drinking Team’ sweatshirts hardly makes a good impression), even I’ll admit that Prague is stunning at the break of dawn.  The cobblestone streets glimmered as the street lights reflected off the rain of the evening before.  I had left the hostel without a map.  I had stumbled upon the bridge previously and I figured I would again without too much delay.  

 
It didn’t take me too terribly long to get lost.  The streets in Prague are small and winding, and one can easily lose their sense of direction.  Most days, I embrace this.  Getting lost in a new city can often lead to the loveliest of discoveries.  But this morning I had a destination and a deadline, I wanted to see Charles Bridge at sunrise.  Unfortunately, the sky was cloudy and the sunrise would be entirely obscured, but the vacancy of the bridge, the glow of the streetlights, and the royal blue tint of the sky would certainly make a lovely photo nonetheless.  But I had to get there.  I thought I was walking in the general necessary direction, but I wasn’t reaching the river.  It was taking far longer than it should have.  I was getting impatient.  The sky was getting brighter and I could feel the moment slipping away.  I began running in spurts, ceasing when a passerby looked on in suspicion.  I finally found the river.  I could see the bridge.  It was like a giant tease.  The bank was blocked so I had to cut back into the streets, and out again.

I finally made it.  The sky was slightly brighter than I had desired, but the lights were on.  I snapped a test shot.  Not bad, a few adjustments and everything would be spot on.  I began to fiddle with the settings when, to my luck, the street lights shut off.  Damn.  The romance disappeared with the light.


At least the bridge was still empty, for the time being.  About 15 minutes after the lights shut of, a few waves of people stumbled onto the bridge, wielding their cameras.  I suppose they had the same idea as I, but got a bit more lost.

Thursday, February 17, 2011

Mein Arsch ist Kalt

 

31 January 2011—Hamburg


I departed for Hamburg.  Each time I must leave a city, it is difficult.  As I travel, I meet an infinite number of marvelous people.  I develop connections and plant the seeds for potentially strong bonds and friendships, only to rip it from the ground shortly thereafter.  Before each relationship is given the chance to flourish, it must be abandoned and left behind—not because it is deserving of such abandonment, but simply out of the necessity that is my pre-conceived plans for travel pushing me ahead.  The dynamic of travel supercedes the static, leaving half-formulated friendships in limbo with unsure promises of future reunions.

In Hamburg I met another host, another kind and open soul with which to share space and time temporarily.  Ester met me at the train station and greeted me with a hug.  We went back to her apartment and quickly became three as another couchsurfer arrived—Angela from Russia.  We were three strangers, brought together by the internet and our own curiosity, now sharing a kitchen as we prepared a delicious carrot and ginger soup.

1 February 2011—Hamburg


Angela has been studying in Hamburg, so she is familiar with the city and offered to show me around.  I accepted, and we began our wanderings despite rather undesirable weather.  It was cold—likely the coldest day I’ve experienced thus far—and the wind cut through my clothing.  Often I found myself chanting “Mein Arsch ist Kalt” as I hopped and skipped to create movement, friction, and ideally warmth (I was rarely successful).  However, it was pleasant having company.  I did not have gaze at a map seeking direction; I simply followed.  And, furthermore, I had a companion whom could take photos of me, proving my existence and presence in Germany.  This saved me the hassle of haphazardly setting my tripod on a bench, snapping test shots, turning on the timer, racing into the frame, and generally causing much confusion for those nearby and much embarrassment for myself.




After preparing dinner alongside Angela, I shared a few beers with an ex-surfer who had stayed with me in Philadelphia.  Facebook gets a lot of criticism, but it certainly has its value.  While I’ve often considered purging my account, I always reconsider when I think about the connections it has allowed me to maintain.  Throughout my life, I have encountered many amazing people with whom I have gotten along quite well.  However, circumstances (generally time and space) do not allow for the practical maintenance of a typical friendship.  However, this does not mean that I do not want future contact with such a person.  Friendships are difficult to maintain without common contextualization, for this is often the content of our conversations.  Therefore, with differing spatial and temporal localities, relationships fizzle.  Facebook, however, enables them to survive this fizzle, allowing a reconnection once localities reconverge and offer a chance for reunion.  This is how I found Ben again, and I’m glad that I could.

In the late evening, Ester’s boyfriend, Torben, returned home for an installation in Münster.  He was quite drunk as he had utilized Mitzfahrzentrale, a German car-sharing program, and had found himself in the backseat with two dominas (professional dominatrixes).  Torben is a photographer and had had an interest in doing a story on just this topic.  It was his lucky night to develop some connections, but there was one catch… he had to drink with them.  As a result, he stumbled in from the rain in the middle of the night, gleeful about his good fortune.

2 February 2011—Hamburg


In the morning, Ester took me to a unique little neighborhood of Hamburg--Blankenese.  Nestled within the hill, homes were linked with only winding steps (4,864 of them).  Allowing yourself to become lost would result in lovely discoveries, and possibly later frustration (as one desperately seeks to go down, while only finding routes up).  I later parted ways with Ester to begin my adventuring solo.  Oye, it was awful weather once again—such a tragedy for such a striking city.  Rather than enjoying her beauty, I felt compelled to huddle indoors, perusing shops instead of sites.




I’ve taken to saying ‘Oye’ and ‘Aye’ a lot.  I’m not quite sure why.

Also, I’m growing ever so slightly obsessed with graffiti and non-sanctioned public art.



As evening approached, I found my bladder begging me for relief.  However, I found no convenient site at which I might offer such reprieve.  I decided to hop on the S-Bahn to Ester’s.  Though she was still at work, her boyfriend Torben was supposed to be home.  When I got to the door I was literally dancing in an attempt to contain myself.  No answer.  Fuck.  Ester worked about a 15-minute walk away.  I may or may not make it.  I may or may not have made it.  I may or may not have found a dark corner off of a side street.  You can pick whichever story suits you fancy and public-relief ethics.

Esther’s friend was performing at an open mic night at a local Jazz Bar.  She invited me to join, and I happily accepted.  When we entered, we had to press through a crowd to reach the bar, and yet another to view the stage.  After several minutes of weaving and muttering “entschuldigen,” we spotted her friend and wiggled our way into the little space behind her.  She would be fifth to sing.  All of the acts were talented, but one in particular stood out and it wasn’t because of his voice.  This stout little man had perhaps the most entertaining dance moves.  And while priceless in and of themselves, when contrasted against awkwardly contradicting appearance and voice, they were elevated to an entirely new level of hilarity.

 

Wednesday, February 9, 2011

Als de potvis in de pispot pist zit de pispot vol met potvispis.


25 January 2011—Rotterdam


After forcing me to eat breakfast, Artur took me to the train station.  With my EuRail Global Pass now in hand, I was departing for Rotterdam.  While on board the train to Frankfurt, I realized I had forgotten to activate my pass.  Shit.  I anxiously waited and hoped a conductor would not pass by to collect tickets (as seems to be a trend on many German trains).  No one did.  At the Frankfurt station I rushed to the ticket counter to activate the pass.  After the amount of money I had spent on the pass, I didn’t want to risk spending more because of my stupidity (a frequent cause of my unnecessary splurging).  I made my connection by seconds.

When I arrived in Rotterdam it was dark.  I had forgotten to make arrangements for myself this evening.  A hotel room was appealing for some much-needed privacy—a chance to walk around naked, sing in the shower, etc.  I went out hunting for a hotel, carrying my things with me.  When I initially walked out of the station, I unknowingly walked out the back entrance.  The streets were small, dark, and there wasn’t much around.  I wandered for about an hour, thoroughly unimpressed with the size of Rotterdam and aching from the pack weighing on my back.  After failing to find a hotel I returned to the station to shove my pack into a locker and continue my search.  I discovered the other end of the station, and this time when I exited I was surrounded by people, lights, and skyscrapers.  This seemed a bit more accurate to my expectations.

I turned down a street with lighted trees lining its sidewalks.  With bike lanes, roads, and trolley lines swirling amongst each other, I was sure a vehicle of some sort would collide with me.  I crossed a main street at a light, a little green man gave me permission.  When I got to the other side, a cop began to yell at me in Dutch.  She was tall, broad, and had bleached spiked hair.  She was terrifying.  I stared at her blankly.  Apparently the little man had turned red as I reached the end of my crossing, and this had been all that she had seen.  I have truly learned the art of sweet, oblivious, apologetic little girl.  This has been quite useful.

Eventually I found a little hotel nestled into a side street.  I entered and asked if any rooms were available.  She proceeded to lead me through a maze to my door.  I set my things down and decided to head back out for food.  It was now about 8 pm and the last thing I had eaten was the breakfast prepared by Artur.  It took me about 10 minutes to find my way back out.  I walked through several corridors, down multiple staircases, doubled back, tried again, and tried again before I finally found the exit to the street.  I walked back toward the station, grabbed a pizza, and picked up my pack from the locker.

26 January 2011—Rotterdam


Map in hand, belongings again shoved into a train station locker, I decided to introduce myself to the city—wandering, exploring, convincing her to reveal her secrets and her beauty.




 
After over seven hours of walking, my feet were blistered and searing with pain. I have learned to ignore the cries of my toes, the sighs of my heels, and the tingling numbing of my arms and fingers.  I returned to the train station to meet my hosts for the next few days—Tessa and Tijmen.

27 January 2011—Rotterdam

International Film Festival Rotterdam


I opted to see two films at the International Film Festival, the reason I had chosen Rotterdam as my destination for these days.  The first film I saw was called Gravity was Everywhere Back Then.  It was a charming film, and I enjoyed it thoroughly.  Brent Green, a self-taught animator from Pennsylvania, recreated the story of a man named Leonard alongside the physical structure that was the haphazard quilt of a house he had hoped would save his wife.  Brent Green’s voice narrates in a whine that is initially irritating, but becomes essential to the feel as he croons about the musings in his mind.  There is something to which each person can connect—whether it is unfaltering love for another, dedication to an art or passion, or a search for meaning and value.  Brent’s wit (“It only takes two things to make a man fall in love: sex and laughter, not at the same time”) intertwines with his existential reflections to offer a film that simultaneously uplifts and weighs heavily upon its viewer.

 
The second film I attended was Film Socialisme by Jean-Luc Godard, for which I had high expectations.  Ever since I was introduced to Godard’s Weekend during my freshman year in the university, I was intrigued by his unusual style and insightful commentary.  However, I don’t really know what to say about Film Socialisme.  Perhaps, I would be better off if I spoke a montage of languages.  While the film claims to be subtitled, Godard is very creative with this interpretation.  What is otherwise a dense commentary on the social and political (in primarily French, but a medley of languages is spoken throughout) is condensed into truncated, scattered, and elusive two or three word phrases.  As a result, I spent most of my time simply trying to grasp an understanding of what was going on as the film jumped between collages of seemingly disconnected images.  The film produced polarized reactions at Cannes, and I’m sure it performed similarly in Rotterdam.  While many remained in their seats for the films lengthy entirety, others (once quite literally) were climbing over the backs of their seats toward the exit. 

28 January 2011—Rotterdam


In the morning (well, my morning, therefore mid-day), a second surfer arrived—Matt from Newcastle.  Matt was volunteering at the Rotterdam film festival and had to head back into the city for his shift.  We decided to walk together (which, after observing his navigation skills, was probably a necessity).  Now, I will say this about Matt.  Before Matt, I had always insisted that the British accent was overrated, even annoying.  Matt changed my mind.  His manner of speech was absolutely adorable and, as we bickered over pronunciation and word choice (from which Tessa and Tijmen seemed to garner much enjoyment), I think I fell in love with the British accent—must add England to the itinerary.

When Matt and I parted ways in the city center, I grabbed a quick lunch.  Matt had suggested the Fotomuseum, which was currently hosting an exhibit on radicalization.  I was intrigued, so I followed his suggestion.  The exhibit focused on young radical activists.  While often perceived with negative connotations, has radicalization not been central to the social progress that has established today’s norms and standards?  And yet, this driving idealism of the youth is so often pushed aside and condemned as naïve and impractical.  The exhibit was a mix of mediums—photography, graphics, art, film, confessionals—that questions and considers both the origin and the consequence of the radical today, and his or her role in a time of political polarization.  More can be read and many parts of the exhibit viewed at http://www.a-n-g-r-y.nl, but if you don’t speak Dutch, I can’t necessarily promise you much success.

When I left the Fotomuseum, the sun was setting.  In the distance was the Euromast, an observation point hovering over the city.  I had previously told myself that I wasn’t going to venture up it, mostly because I was too cheap.  When the length of your travel is dependent upon the extension of your money, you begin to prioritize and be quite stingy (most of the time).  At ten euros, the mast seemed like a waste, but I figured I may get some nice photos and I had quite a bit of spare time.



The observation deck was outside.  And FUCK, was it cold.  As the wind threatened to throw me from tower, I huddled over the railing trying to steady my camera.  My fingers became numb and barely functional.  With my camera in one hand, I would tuck the other into my sleeve, trying to regain feeling.  As soon as it did, I would alternate, teasing each hand with a moment of comfort before thrusting it back out into the bitter cold evening.  However, I was determined to get my money’s worth.  I wanted sunset and night shots, so I hunkered down and stood my ground in the blistery winds for nearly an hour.

When I returned to Tessa and Tijmen’s, I wrapped myself in a blanket and slowly regained warmth.  Shortly after, Tessa arrived home.  She had invited me to join her, Tijmen, and some others for a show.  Some friends were performing at a local venue called Exit.  Fond of new places, new people, and new music, I accepted ecstatically.  The band was called the Flying Goat Fuckers (alongside two others); however, for some reason I seemed to consistently refer to them as the Exploding Goat Fuckers.  Now, I would love to offer a sample of their music, but they don’t even have a Myspace.  Yes, they are just that cool.


The music was catchy, and in combination with beer, it didn’t take long for us to start dancing.  Casper repeatedly poured beer on himself (some sort of mating ritual perhaps?), while the rest of us hopped around like imbeciles, bounding into one another as others watched in intrigue and amusement.



Matt got off of work late and joined us, clearly far behind on the alcohol consumption.  I bought him a shot of Jäger to try to help bring him up to speed, but it was going to take a lot more than that.  When we left Exit, Tijmen brought the group to what he affectionately refers to as the “butt-plug gnome” for some entertaining pictures.  As we climbed on the statue, we were even joined by some complete strangers who wanted in on the action.




29 January 2011—Rotterdam


We met a number of Tessa’s friends for a ride on the pancake boat.  Despite their close proximity, no one except Tessa had ridden it, and for her it had only been as a child.  On the boat, one was able to eat unlimited pancakes as long as it continued moving.  This was accompanied by a buffet stocked with sugary sweets, jams, fruit, and other toppings.  It was sunset, and as we stuffed ourselves, we found it difficult to get our money’s worth.  After two pancakes, I was bursting at the seams, but determined to continue.  My first was a traditional sugary pancake, the second with pineapple and cheese (as inspired by Matt).  For my third, I decided to attempt a PB&J pancake, as suggested by Lennert, Tijmen’s older brother.  As I smeared the peanut butter and jelly over the pancake, the others commented on its unappetizing appearance.  I rolled it and tasted.  No good.  Others tried it out of curiosity and we came to a consensus that that which works on bread does not always work on pancakes.



We headed up to the deck, which was empty (probably because it was fucking freezing).  Shenanigans ensued.  We discussed the prospects of raiding the ball pit downstairs, but concluded that it was packed with too many obnoxious children.



After a little over an hour, the boat docked.  Laura, an Italian girl and friend of Tessa, consumed the most pancakes—six.  An impressive feat, and she didn’t skimp on the toppings.  Matt came in second with four or five.

I was supposed to head to Amsterdam that evening, but the company was so enjoyable that I was persuaded to stay in Rotterdam until Monday.  Amsterdam could wait.  We went to a grocery store, perused the shelves, and returned to Tessa’s apartment stocked with wine, bread, crackers, and other tasty things.  It was a fairly calm evening in.  We sat in the living room, drinking and having lively discussions.  Lennert, who studies Wing Chun, decided to give the females lessons in self-defense.  As a result, a large portion of our evening consisted of Lennert lunging at us, exclaiming “I’m grabbing your boobs, what do you do?!?!”


30 January 2011—Rotterdam


Tessa and Tijmen took Matt and I on a tour of the city.  There was a particular destination in mind—Stroopwafles.  Stroopwafles are a traditional Dutch desert consisting of two thin waffle crisps with sugary syrup slathered between them.  The man preparing them told me “Be careful, those are dangerous,” and further alluded to tormenting nightmares when one has been introduced to the treat, and later deprived.  I chuckled, and proceeded to enjoy this (apparently) delectably dangerous desert.

In the evening I attended another show with Tessa, Tijmen, and a few of their friends.  Two members in the opening act were work colleagues of Tessa.  The second act, an American band called Glasser, wore elaborate costumes.  I was unquestionably in love with her dress.



I ended the evening with a little cultural experience.  Back at Ruut, Robin, and Casper’s apartment, we all gathered around the television to watch the Nationaal Songfestival for the selection of the song that would represent the Netherlands at the 2011 Eurovision Song Contest (to take place in Düsseldorf).

Here’s the winner, if you’re interested (the guy on the left is rather entertaining):

 

Monday, January 31, 2011

Zur Mitte, zur Titte, zum Sack, Zack Zack!!


21 January 2011—Kaiserslautern


I arrived in Kaiserslautern in the evening.  Fabian greeting me at the station and we walked back to his apartment where I promptly crashed on the couch, exhausted from the night before.  I was woken about an hour later by Robert as he collapsed onto me for a giant hug.  He had arrived with his roommate, Nils.

Robert and Fabian couchsurfed at my apartment back in October.  While they were visiting Philadelphia, I took them and a third surfer from New Zealand to my friend’s 21st birthday party.  That evening was certainly a precursor to the weekend I would experience here.

 
Robert, Fabian, Nils, and I road the train to Mannheim.  It was about an hour ride, so we passed the time sipping beers.  We met up with Christina and two of her friends.  Meat consumption number four:  pepperoni pizza.  At Christina’s we had these adorable little shots of schnapps, or something.  They were in colorful little bottles and were accompanied by a charming routine.  On the bottom of the bottle was a number.  Mine was 15.  I tapped the bottle 15 times on my leg, opened it, stuck the cap on my nose and proceeded to drink the shot hands free, with the neck of the bottle in between my teeth.  We all did it together.  And well, if your bottle had the number 99… sucks to be you.

 
We headed out to a club.  After pressing through an impressive crowd to the coat check, we made our way out to the dance floor.  I will again repeat my sentiments regarding the Germans and their dancing.  I love it.  It is so charmingly uncoordinated and awkward that I can’t help but smile and join in.  By the end of the night I was drenched in beer, my own and others’.



A man named Franz was trying to dance with Christina.  She looked at me in desperation, so I told Franz she would dance with him when she finished her beer.  I proceeded to continuously refill her beer whenever it neared empty.  Apparently, I also threatened his life at some point, as he dragged Christina off to say goodnight.



When we left the club, we went to a Döner Kebab Haus.  I really should consider revoking my title as a vegetarian.  Everyone had spent the day insisting I try a Kebab.  I was expecting meat on a skewer.  However, what I got was a pita stuffed with shredded beef, lettuce, a mystery sauce and other goodies.  It was actually quite tasty but I did not finish it, passing the second half to Fabian, who showed no resistance.

I finished off the evening in a Turkish bar with Nils, as the others already headed back to Christina’s to sleep.  Drinking my final beer of the evening, I was surround by celebration.  It may have been a wedding, or a birthday; I’m not quite sure.  Flower pedals coated the floor and crowds danced enthusiastically to traditional Turkish music.

22 January 2011—Kaiserslautern


I cooked dinner for Fabian, Robert, and Nils.  Pasta with a homemade vegetable sauce, nothing terribly special.  However, I must say, it is always an adventure cooking in someone else’s kitchen, and such a process makes me wish I had packed my Shun Santoku knife in my pack (does that make me a loser?).  Instead, I found myself creatively and inefficiently slicing vegetables with a two inch blade. 

After dinner, Robert, Nils, and I played a card game while introducing one another to strange YouTube videos.  So without further ado, I present to you, Big Booty Bitches:



Fabian had arranged a big night out with all of his friends.  There were 17 of us, and we started at the Hofbrauhaus below Fabian’s apartment.  I was swiftly bombarded with a list of names and faces, most of which I do not remember now.  After a few rounds at the Brauhaus, we moved on to another bar, and later to a dance club.



This evening was the first time I felt truly alone since the beginning of this trip.  I’ve wandered cities by myself, gazed out train windows into vast fields of unknown land, but never really felt alone.  While it is the tool of communication, language can be an isolating thing.  When one lacks the linguistic ability to communicate, you lose your connection to humanity.  Isolated amongst a group of friends who speak, joke, and relate with one another at ease, struggling to capture a word or a phrase recognizable phrase, I was essentially alone despite the crowd surrounding me.  I began to question what I left behind, and what it was I was seeking.  What I left was comfort, and what I was seeking was discomfort.  So I was exactly where I wanted to be.  But to see comfort, without feeling it, can be a bit distressing, even when that is what was sought.

23 January 2011—Kaiserslautern


While Kaiserslautern may be the place where I have learned the most German thus far, I can’t really say it’s the most useful.  Or maybe it absolutely is the most useful.

Robert cooked me a lovely dinner which was meat consumption number (what are we up to now?!) six.  Don’t worry, I gave him permission to cook something with meat beforehand, for the sake of experiencing traditional German food.

24 January 2011—Kaiserslautern


I accompanied Robert and Artur (another roommate) to their mathematics class at the University.  The professor was French.  German sounds pretty funny when spoken with a French accent.  I opted to use the time to make progress in my Rosetta Stone program, which I have neglected greatly.  Surrounded by Germans, I felt quite awkward as simple (often comical) German sentences popped onto my screen with accompanying (often equally hilarious) photos. 

Saturday, January 22, 2011

Einbahnstraße


18 January 2011—Heidelberg


It seems my packing skills have improved since my arrival.  I managed to eliminate all extraneous swinging from my pack, making it much more manageable.  My converses were not neatly shoved into its belly rather than dangling at either side.  It looks slightly less epic, but more practical I suppose.

I opted to take the cheapest train, which meant there was little storage besides a small shelf above your head.  Impressively, I heaved by pack up—all 58 pounds, and sat cautiously below it.  I knew that if it toppled off it would most definitely hurt like hell.  I was quite proud of my accomplishment.  Hoisting and lowering that pack to such a height is quite a feat for a little lady like me.  One gentleman watched in awe.


Initially, the train was packed, and I kept to my little corner, resisting the urge to photograph and document my pack in the crowd.  However, as the ride progressed, the car emptied and only a few people remained on the opposite end.  Immediately, I busted out my camera and began arranging in on the chair opposite me, setting the self-timer, and essentially entertaining myself for the remaining hour.  The group at the other end must have thought I was insane, hopping back and forth as I was.  And at one point, while I smiled obnoxiously for the camera, a girl from the other car spotted me through the window as she waited to exit and awkwardly smiled back.  She couldn’t see the camera.  I imagine she was rather confused.


The hostel website had directions written from the train station.  I had glanced them over earlier, noted the number 33, and left it at that.  I really should learn from my mistakes.  Disregarding directions rarely ends well.  I ended up riding the bus entirely too far.  I realized this when I saw the German sign for “Leaving Heidelberg” on the side of the road.  Damn it.  I hauled my pack off of the bus, figuring I would catch one in the opposite direction, rectifying my mistake.  I was on the side of a dark road, sitting alone, waiting desperately for transportation.  After a while, a bus came, but it was not the 33, it was the 35… I hoped on it anyways figuring it was going in the necessary general direction.  It did not stop where I needed, but it was close enough, I hoped.  I hopped off and began wandering.  One would really think that the Hauptstraße (Main Street) would be easier to find.  It is never fun to be lost with a pack and two bags dangling from either hand.  Around 20:00, I finally stumbled upon the hostel.

I entered.  I was lucky.  The bartender was a cutie.  I settled myself in, went out for some pictures, and returned around 22:00.  Once back, I set myself up at the bar for dinner (and beer, obviously) and proceeded to flirt and converse with said cute bartender until closing.





19 January 2011—Heidelberg


A rather standard day of exploration.  I grabbed my camera and set off for a few sites.  First, the nerd in me took me to Philosophenweg.  Not only was this known to be a destination for many of Heidelberg’s strolling professors and scholars, it was suppose to offer some spectacular views.

I wasn’t prepared for the climb.  Suddenly, I encountered a steep, narrow, winding alley up the side of the mountain.  Stone walls on either side blocked the view, but two lookouts offered a glimpse of below.  When I reached the top, I will admit that I was fairly disappointed.  It was nothing more than a paved road on the cusp of a large hill.  I suppose there was a panoramic view of Heidelberg, but trees and branches obstructed any truly stunning documentation of this.





I wandered along, enjoying the crisp air.  It flurried once.  It was quite brief, but lovely.  At the end of Philsophenweg is a garden.  Colorful flowers were maintained despite the off-season.  I took a seat on a bench overlooking the city and I decided to try to meditate. Of course, nearly the instant I closed my eyes, it began to rain.  Mission failed.  I picked up my things and began my descent into the city.


Now a bit hungry, I spotted a bakery across the street.  Three cute boys sat it the window.  Okay, looks good, I thought.  I entered and purchased a chocolate croissant and sat by the window, watching the rain fall.

As the rain tapered off, I left and walked toward the river.  I noticed a path and followed it to the river’s edge.  Like all the others in the region, it too was flooded.  I walked along a narrow cobblestone strip, the water only an inch below.  As barges passed by, the waves threatened to crash onto my feet.  



I had looped back to the Alte Brücke.  I crossed and headed toward the castle towering over the city.  Another steep incline, but well worth the climb.  The castle's rubbled walls offered a flawless view of the city below.  It was enchanting, and the castle was a great subject for some HDR experimentation (which I had taught myself only a few nights before).  So, do forgive—I may have had a little too much fun.









20 January 2011—Heidelberg


There we four others in my room this past night.  One of which snored louder than any other human (and possibly animal) that I have ever heard.  Honestly, he sounded like he was dying.  Not even sleeping pills and earplugs offered much relief.  So, even though my alarm was going off in the morning as they left to check-out, I snuggled back into my bed for some much needed (real) sleep.  Around mid-day I was awoken by a serenade in the neighboring room—a charmingly off-tune rendition of “More Than Words” on guitar.

I tend not to eat here, mostly I forget and find myself famished at around 6 or 7 in the evening.  I eat about once a day, unless you count a croissant or beer… then twice.  So, long after the sun had set, I grabbed a slice of pizza.  I really should consider revoking my title of vegetarian.  I ate meat for a third time.  Initially, by accident.  However, I continued out of apathy.  There was some sort of ham, or sausage, or both on the slice of pizza.  I had not noticed it through the window, and since my German is generally lacking, ordering is primarily a process of pointing.  By the end of the slice, I really could not stand the taste of ham lingering in my mouth, so I turned into a McDonalds.  I learned that they have cheap veggieburgers there, but I’m really not sure which is worse and more shocking—my consumption of meat, or my consumption of McDonalds.  But these two have not yet been combined; surely that will be the day that the earth spontaneously combusts… but maybe not.  In the McDonalds, I ordered my first meal entirely in German (insert applause bitte).  And apparently they have bakeries in the McDonalds here, so I finished off my meal with a nice slab of schokokuchen.  You’re allowed to binge on pizza, burgers, and chocolate cake when you have not eaten in 24 hours and walk multiple hours each day, occasionally with a 58 pound pack on your back.  But to be honest, I felt quite awful afterwards.


I wandered to the Hauptbahnhof to meet Nasrin (Nessie), exploring the quiet neighborhoods surrounding the central district on my way.  I had messaged Nessie the night before, asking if she would be interested in going out for a drink.  Going out alone can be awkward, making an early night in quite the temptress.  However, to not go out feels a bit lame, and incomplete.  The company and insight of a local is priceless, and Nessie showed me a great evening.

She took me to a pub that she frequents, and immediately upon entering two men exclaimed “NESSIE!”  Her friends were there, as she had hoped and expected.  Her two friends were American, and they were accompanied by an eclectic crowd—German, Swiss, French, Egyptian, British, and another American.  We enjoyed beer and conversation before heading out to a different bar.  While we had the sprawl of a giant table at the pub, we found ourselves shoved into a corner at the next bar.  It was much more crowded, and apparently known for its shots.  Sebastian, the Swiss, began passing around shots, refusing to inform me of what I was drinking until after it was consumed.  The first few were quite fine… schnapps primarily, a specialty in Germany.  A while later, I am handed a flaming shot.  I looked at Sebastian in shock, “Fuck no”, I said.  He insisted that you did not drink the shot until after the flame had extinguished and passed around more shots to the group.  On top of the shot glass was a lemon slice and a sugar cube (which had formerly been on fire).  Sebastian instructed us to first eat the sugar cube, take the shot, and suck the lemon.

H.O.L.Y.  S.H.I.T.  I guess the flame should have been a sign.  Nothing has ever tasted more awful.  I nearly vomited right on the floor.  In fact, immediately after taking the shot, Nessie rushed to the bathroom to purge herself of the shit.  I tried to maintain my composure, guzzling beer to mask the taste.  Apparently, the shot had Tabasco in it, and a lot of it.  My lips burnt incessantly for the next 15 minutes, and I had to make a trip to the bathroom to shovel water into my mouth from the sink—classy.  The burning didn’t subside until Nessie took a piece of milk chocolate from her bag and offered it to me.